Gloves were removed – just like all other clothing – in this lingerie-inspired collection that featured more corset chips, garter belts, and stockings than a 1950s pin-up calendar.
Last season, Jonny Johansson focused on wellness, swaddling the body in fluffy knits, bathrobes and draped dresses inspired by cozy interiors. But it’s spring now, so he takes off the layers and looks at lingerie in a whole new light.
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Johansson said he was thinking of “personal identity” and “people’s obsession with performance, presenting themselves in fashionable ways – and showing themselves”, especially on social media.
“It’s a way of self-conceptualizing, of communicating to the world that you are ‘in the mix’,” he said.
So focus on corsetry, crochet, and traditional crafts. Johansson said he worked with tailoring corset makers, while all of the crochet was done by hand.
“It’s old work, and I respect that – but I tried to make it cool and provocative.” He certainly succeeded on that front, sending this bodycon collection off with platform sandals as large as cinder blocks.
The simpler looks were the best: a dark coat with lace-up details on the back and on the cuffs; an ethereal white dress anchored by a matching boneless corset, and crochet tops, bodysuits and even sheer or chunky handbags. The short knit kilts-like skirts were adorable, as were all those long-sleeved skinny cardigans.
Many of these looks were delicate, however, with too much detail of garter belts, bangs, buttons, stirrups, and buckles. A black leather mini had buttons, a belt and suspender details with buckles. It was teamed with a see-through shirt with long laces dripping down the sleeves. It was hard to know where to look first.
Streamlined and streamlined, much of this will easily translate into Acne’s workshop, although those bulky rigs may instead want to live the rest of their lives on the track.
Launch gallery: Acne Studios RTW Spring 2021